'I ate 8,000 calories a day in one of the world's food capitals and regret nothing'

"Relax, you’re far too stiff!” my new dance partner urged me as I awkwardly shifted side to side at a honky-tonk bar in San Antonio, Texas. “It’s one step to the right,” she said, gripping my hands tighter, “and then two steps to the left.”

It struck me she might have been miffed at finishing third in The Lonesome Rose bar’s Best Dressed Dolly Parton competition. Or the more likely explanation – I have no rhythm. It was Halloween at the vibrant saloon and the Dolly lookalike had asked me to boogie. At the bar I was ticking off stereotypes I’d been desperate to see before flying to Texas.

Here I was, in my new $60 cowboy hat, dancing with a Dolly, surrounded by neon Budweiser signs and mounted stag heads, while an authentic country and western band performed only feet away. I was the star of a John Ford film.

But, it turns out, this was merely the amuse-bouche of my five-day trip. What I found in San Antonio went far beyond my expectations of Texas from the silver screen. The city surprised and captivated me in ways I’d never expected with its rich culture, incredible food and history.

“You don’t need to die to go to heaven,” celebrity chef Johnny Hernandez told our group after we sat down for dinner one night at his Mexican restaurant La Gloria, where the food is so good people nod their heads at each other after every bite. He was right, I thought, while filling my face with house-made tortilla chips, but not only about his food offering. I felt those six words everywhere I went in the city.

Where to stay and what to see

I was lucky enough to wake up each day at the beautiful Omni La Mansión del Rio hotel. It’s worth mentioning that it’s the home to the Four Brothers restaurant, which served up the best chilli I’ve ever had. A mouthwatering fusion of American Wagyu beef, aged cheddar, scallions and crema.

The hotel leads out to San Antonio’s breathtaking River Walk – a channel built in response to a flood in 1921 which killed 50 people. Its meandering route, below street level, is lined with restaurants and shops, making it a major tourist destination.

Colourful boats with tour guides at the helm float down the water at busy periods. While on board I learnt my new favourite wacky fact: it’s illegal to milk another person’s cow in Texas, and doing so may result in a $10 fine.

Visit the River Walk early in the morning, and you’ll find its winding pathways and connecting stone bridges deserted. It was incredible to see it so peaceful. The River Walk’s snake-like bends bind the city together. It connects must-see draws such as San Antonio Museum of Art, culinary and cultural hub The Pearl and arguably the city’s most famous piece of history, the Alamo.

The site was one of the early Spanish missions and was built as a base to convert native Americans to Christianity. The Battle of the Alamo took place there in 1836, towards the end of the Texas Revolution. American folk hero Davy Crockett died along with most of the 200 defenders during the 90-minute battle at the end of a 13-day siege by around 2,000 Mexican troops.

I was amazed to see a fiddle which purportedly belonged to Crockett on display at the Witte Museum. Mainly because it was in a tiny back room, in a box behind a sheet, which could easily be missed. Maverick Whiskey, around the corner from the Alamo, offers a fabulous tasting tour. I was told about the distillery’s storied past as I knocked back its delicious liquid gold… perhaps too delicious, as I forgot a lot of the fine details the moment I stepped back outside.

This also set the scene for an interesting walk back to my hotel, dodging horse carriages which travel through San Antonio’s streets.

Where to eat

San Antonio’s food offerings blew me away, along with my belt buckle. Eating upwards of 8,000 calories per day became routine. Portions were big, and my belly is now even bigger yet I regret not one mouthful.

Tex-Mex restaurant and bakery Mi Tierra was a highlight and a visual explosion from the off. Shiny ceiling decorations hang within touching distance, while mariachi bands perform at the tables. Covering an entire wall is a mural depicting important figures who helped build America’s Hispanic community and San Antonio in general.

“The food is just really, really great,” said manager Gerardo Sepulveda when I asked him what makes the family-run business so popular. A simple, but correct assessment. I chose its Huevos Rancheros – eggs, refried beans, bacon with tortillas – and devoured the meal within what felt like 10 seconds flat.

La Panaderia bakery’s popularity is evident in the long queue snaking out of the door when we arrived at 9am. We left with a box full of cakes and pastries the size of my head.

I was very fortunate to spend two days dipping in and out of the Tasting Texas Wine & Food Festival which brings together the best chefs and restaurants every year. I loved exploring the flavours and speaking to the brilliant minds behind each dish. And, of course, I enjoyed several shots of whiskey. Again.

The people

On the surface, San Antonio’s deep culture and divine food is what makes it special. But it’s so much more than that. What stood out to me, above all else, were its people. Everyone in the city appears to be happy. Its inquisitive and friendly inhabitants want to learn more about you. They want that interaction, wanting to know how your day is going.

I entered the same lift every day at my hotel and, nine times out of 10, a stranger would spark up a random conversation. Moments like this made my entire trip. And I know, if you were to visit San Antonio, they would make yours too.

Book the holiday

• America As You Like It offers a five night package to San Antonio, Texas, from £1,795pp including flights from Heathrow via Atlanta on October 24, five days fully inclusive car hire and five nights on room-only at the Omni Mansion del Rio hotel. americaasyoulikeit.com
• More info at visitsanantonio.com traveltexas.com