Whether you're an individual, a brand, or forging your career, is the significance of staying authentic
In Conversation: Diane von Furstenberg, Fashion Designer / Nancy Delhalle, Chief Operations Officer, Serviceplan Group Belux
Diane von Furstenberg is known for her pioneering wrap dress and indomitable spirit. In a conversation with Nancy Delhalle, co-founder House of Communication Brussels, the iconic fashion designer shares inspiring insights about the most important lessons she has learnt in her life, women's empowerment, and her concept of being in charge.
Nancy Delhalle: Growing up in Brussels, you swiftly embraced the fascination of exploring different horizons. You ventured overseas and eventually found yourself in Italy, commencing a journey that revolved around working with an exceptional textile material. Can you share with us the details of this crucial chapter in your life when your fashion story truly commenced?
Diane von Furstenberg: When embarking on the journey of life, it often feels like standing before a multitude of doors, uncertain of which one to open. My path led me to an unexpected opportunity in Italy, where I worked with a man in Como who managed a printing plant. This facility produced scarves for prestigious fashion houses like Valentino and Ferragamo. During my time there, I gained valuable insights into the intricate process of printing, from transforming illustrations into repeat patterns to creating a colour palette. What made it fascinating was that it was a family-run business, with generations of colourists. The business was thriving, and they needed additional space. They purchased an adjacent vacant factory, which had a collection of machines previously used for stocking production. The idea to experiment with these machines, using thicker yarn, sparked interest. They contacted a yarn manufacturer, and that's how the remarkable jersey fabric came into being. It was a serendipitous moment. We had both printing and jersey fabric – what if we combined them? The concept of creating a polo shirt took root, and I began envisioning a range of polo-inspired designs, including dresses and knits.
Than you went to New York…
DvF: Around that time, my mother gifted me a ticket to visit my boyfriend, Egon, who was in New York. This marked my first trip to the city, and I instantly fell in love with it. Egon was a charming bachelor, and New York exuded a world of glamour. Designers were eager to dress me, and I met young talents like Giorgio Sant'Angelo and Stephen Burroughs. I was exposed to a different style of clothing than what was prevalent in Europe, as there was no ready-to-wear at the time, except perhaps for Saint Laurent's Rive Gauche, which emerged a couple of years later. A month later, I had to return to Europe, and a sense of melancholy overcame me during the flight back. How could I find my way back to New York? But upon returning to the factory, a shift in my perspective occurred. I saw an opportunity there. I decided to experiment with creating samples and envisioned selling them in America. And that's essentially how my fashion journey began.
How the idea for the iconic wrap dress, which you conceptualized fifty years ago, came to fruition and how it has evolved over the years?
DvF: In hindsight, I wasn't considering all of that at the time. My journey began quite unexpectedly. Initially, I started with a polo shirt, and, to keep the story concise, my life took a sudden turn when I met Egon in Italy just before his summer trip. An unexpected pregnancy led to our rapid marriage, and everything unfolded remarkably quickly. I found myself in America with a suitcase full of clothes. So, I set up a makeshift workspace in my dining room, all while facing the challenges of raising two children born within a year of each other. Juggling all of this was quite a feat, but by the age of 24, I was living in New York and launching a business. At the outset, my creations were modest – t-shirt dresses, shirt dresses, and a simple wrap top. The inspiration for the wrap top came from the layers that ballerinas wear over their tutus to stay warm. It was paired with skirts or pants and gained popularity. That's when the idea of designing a wrap dress began to take shape. However, creating it proved to be a complex task, primarily due to the distinctive large belt it featured. I vividly recall the process, which is also documented in a recently released book called "Woman Before Fashion." One individual who played a crucial role in my journey was my original pattern maker, who is now 89 years old. So, that's the story in a nutshell.
Many of us find ourselves juggling different elements of our lives. How managing all aspects of life simultaneously can contribute to independence and success?
DvF: Managing everything in life, from work to children, and, yes, even the husband, is undeniably challenging. When people asked how I balanced work, family, and a husband, I always responded with a wink, saying, 'Children and work are easier than managing a husband.’ After accumulating a wealth of experiences and insights, the most valuable advice I can offer, whether you're an individual, a brand, or forging your career, is the significance of staying authentic. From my perspective, authenticity is the key to freedom. Even in the face of adversity or constraints, remaining true to oneself provides a profound sense of liberation. This is the foremost piece of guidance I can provide. Additionally, I firmly believe that the most crucial relationship in life is the one we have with ourselves. Once we establish a strong connection with our own selves, any other relationships we form become a bonus rather than a necessity. The goal is never to be dependent or needy.
Why is philanthropy important in your life?
DvF: Philanthropy, in my case, traces back to my childhood when it involved volunteering in hospitals, a task I wasn't particularly skilled at. However, the genuine essence of philanthropy began to unfold through a series of fortunate events. I've always been a feminist, influenced by my mother's feminism. One day, I crossed paths with an exceptional organization called Vital Voices. It's more than just a network; it's a dynamic community of extraordinary women who, to put it frankly, get things done. When I say "extraordinary women", I'm not referring to prime ministers but to women working on the ground, making things happen. I've been deeply involved with them for an extended period and have served on their board. This involvement led to further philanthropic ventures. I established the DvF Awards, which honours exceptional women possessing the strength to persevere, the courage to endure, and the leadership to inspire.
Can you tell us more about the concept of being in charge?
DvF: As one thing led to another, I often reflected on my childhood response to what I wanted to be: not a specific profession, but a woman IN CHARGE. I later coined my customer as "the woman in charge". Being in charge has always been the guiding principle underlying my work and personal journey. A few years ago, I started contemplating the meaning of being "in charge". It's not an adversarial stance against men or anyone; it's a commitment to oneself and to all of us. It's about embracing our true selves, our imperfections transformed into assets, and our vulnerabilities turned into sources of strength. From there, the concept of the "In Charge Manifesto" took shape.
You are known as a great networker.
DvF: Every day, I strive to work a miracle, and you can all do it by connecting someone to another person they might never have met. These quiet acts of connecting people can yield remarkable results. A simple, well-crafted email introduction can be incredibly impactful, bringing happiness and sparking positive change. I encourage each of you to try it; it's an experience that will enrich your life and enable you to create meaningful connections.
What final three pieces of advice would you like to give us?
DvF: To expand your horizons, set aside quality time each week for someone you encounter regularly but haven't truly engaged with. This not only broadens that person's perspective but also your own. Inspiring others is about storytelling, and it's crucial to understand that the most inspiring stories aren't about your successes but about your challenges. Activate: Choose a cause that resonates with you and take action!