Charles Dickens famously remarked that "champagne is one of the elegant extras in life", such was his love for the sparkling wine originated and produced in the Champagne region of France.
Part of champagne’s appeal is its specificity; to officially bare the label, it must be produced at one of the 16,000 odd vineyards in the Champagne region. However, that may no longer be the case.
Lauded as “the biggest change in the sector for decades”, French winemakers are set to increase the official champagne-making area by up to 15 per cent to meet demand, which comes almost 100 years after mayors in eastern France declined the opportunity to be incorporated within the zone.
In 1927, fearing higher taxes and bureaucracy, several mayors decided that local farmers would be better off growing cereal crops than becoming one of the officially designated districts where champagne could be produced.
With the benefit of hindsight, this proved to be a very costly error. The average price of vineyards in the 319 districts that decided to opt into the champagne region was €1.06 million per hectare in 2022. The price of land in the districts that opted out was about 1 per cent of that.
Now, local mayors are set to rectify the mistakes of their predecessors. Maxime Toubart, chairman of the General Union of Winemakers in Champagne, has said his organisation is prepared to increase the area where the D.O.P-labelled drink can be made.
However, the plan to extend the boundary of the champagne-making zone has divided opinion. When plans were first drawn up in 2003, a total of 45 new districts were designated, but 1,334 complaints were submitted – it took two years to hear them all. Critics argue that an increase in the number of producers could result in a champagne glut, driving down prices. When it comes to the beloved luxury beverage, opinions are naturally impassioned.
For those that are in favour of the expansion, they will have to wait a while; vines are reportedly unlikely to be planted in newly designated parcels before 2030.
Sometimes the best bottles are those you have to wait decades for.
Read the full story via The Times here: https://lnkd.in/em7ndYfA
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