Đăng Nhân Hoàng’s Post

“Luxury is a game of identity. Identity is what differentiates luxury strategy from strategy of premium and mass brands. Identity commands value perception, and prevents cost-per-wear and price-value calculus.” Spot on!

View profile for Ana Andjelic, graphic

Global Chief Brand Officer Forbes Most Entrepreneurial CMO

I noticed that the luxury slowdown has been analyzed from the geo-political, macro-economic and market growth angles. But the problem is cultural. Luxury lost its soft power. Luxury’s soft power kept its value and price together. Price made something more desirable (the Veblen effect) and no one questioned the price thanks to perception of value. This value was material, but mostly cultural and social: when an item sold too well or too quickly, a luxury brand would discontinue it. Cynic is a man “who knows the price of everything, and the value of nothing,” noted Oscar Wilde. He might have as well been describing today’s luxury market. Seemingly overnight, luxury products’ price unbundled from their perception of value - their desirability - and turned them into commodities. Luxury exists in the social and cultural exchange system, not in a market segment. It is glib to think that a different market growth strategy will save luxury. Luxury doesn't need a new competitive strategy, it needs a new cultural strategy. Where, exactly, is the value? Luxury is a game of identity. Identity is what differentiates luxury strategy from strategy of premium and mass brands. Identity commands value perception, and prevents cost-per-wear and price-value calculus. It also makes a brand incomparable: premium and mass brands communicate how they are better/cheaper/faster than competition. Luxury brands don’t. (Or, at least, those luxury brands that retained their incomparability do not: Hermès sales are up 11.3 percent in the Q3 of 2024. Bottega Veneta and Brunello Cucinelli have also grown, as did Prada.) The list is short. Luxury brands literally lost the plot. Instead of doubling-down on identity, most luxury brands doubled-down on creating more products. Without identity, a product is commodity. Without identity, a brand is a glorified production facility. A lot of luxury brands organized themselves as commercial entities fiercely focused on their own efficiency, cost-cutting and bottom line. This growth strategy made a lot of them forget who they are, what they stand for, and the role they play in culture. Read the full analysis on The Sociology of Business: https://lnkd.in/e34H9c7m

  • No alternative text description for this image

To view or add a comment, sign in

Explore topics